In the third part of our series on Champagne and the traditional method, Westgarth Wines wine specialist Maurizio Broggi looks at the winemaking techniques that contribute to the wine’s unique flavor profile.

Champagne is made using the traditional method, historically known in Champagne as ‘méthode champenoise’. This method, used to produce bottle-fermented sparkling wines, is renowned for its complexity and its contribution to the wine's unique flavor profile.

A key requirement of Champagne production is obtaining clear, high-quality grape juice while minimizing the extraction of color and phenolic compounds. This is especially important given that more than two-thirds of the grapes used in Champagne are black grapes. As a result, whole bunches of grapes are carefully and gently pressed, with pressure applied gradually. This process ensures high quality juice, minimizes phenolic extraction (preventing the release of bitter tannins from the skins and seeds), and allows the production of white wine from Pinot Noir and Meunier.

Traditionally, a vertical basket press holding 4,000 kg of grapes was used for pressing. Today, modern producers also employ pneumatic and hydraulic horizontal presses. The amount of juice extracted from the pressing is regulated to preserve wine quality and fruit purity while minimizing the extraction of coarse phenolics and color pigments. To achieve this, the juice is divided into two distinct fractions. The cuvée is the first 2,050 liters of juice, it is composed of free-run juice and the finest quality press juice. The cuvée produces wines with great elegance, high acidity, higher sugar content, and long ageing potential. The taille is the second fraction and amounts to 500 liters. It contains more phenolics, color pigments, and has lower acidity. The taille is often used in higher proportions in non-vintage Champagnes, as it provides fruitier, more approachable wines that are ideal for early consumption.

The first fermentation typically takes place in stainless steel tanks, though an increasing number of producers are adopting oak vessels, such as large oak foudres, to add texture and mouthfeel to the wine. While most Champagne undergoes malolactic conversion to soften its sharp acidity, some producers choose to block it for stylistic reasons. In recent years, warmer vintages driven by climate change have made this decision more of a stylistic choice than a necessity, as grapes naturally achieve greater ripeness.

The ‘assemblage’ is the art of blending different lots of wine, which may include both base wines from the current vintage and reserve wines. The goal is to create a final base wine with a tasting profile and quality that is superior to the sum of its parts. This essential and complex process relies on the expertise of the chef de cave (cellar master), who must foresee how the final wine will develop before the second fermentation and maturation on the lees occur. Blending may involve base wines from different grape varieties, vineyards, villanges and vintages.

Blending is especially critical for non-vintage Champagnes, where the goal is to maintain consistency of style year after year, preserving the producer’s house style. By blending from a large number of different lots, producers can achieve this consistency. Large houses typically blend from hundreds of wine lots from different vineyards and villages. In non-vintage wines, current vintage wines are blended with reserve wines, which not only smooth out vintage variations but also add complexity while maintaining the house style. The proportion of reserve wines can range from 10% to 50%, with larger proportions (30–50%) adding depth, complexity, and consistency of style. For example, Krug is known for its complex blending of more than 120 wines from at least 10 different years to create its Grande Cuvée.

How reserve wines are stored plays a significant role in shaping the wine's style. While reserve wines are typically stored in stainless steel vessels, some producers age all or part of their base wines in old oak vessels, which add complexity and texture. Notably, Bollinger is famous for aging its reserve wines in magnums under cork. Some producers, such as Philipponnat and Bruno Paillard, use a ‘solera’ system for their reserve wines, creating a perpetual reserve by drawing off a portion of wine each year for blending and replacing it with younger wine. This results in a blend of both younger and older wines, contributing to the wine's complexity.

Once the final blend is complete, the traditional method involves adding the ‘liqueur de tirage’ to the base wine to trigger the second fermentation in the bottle (‘prise de mousse’). The liqueur de tirage is a mixture of wine, sugar, cultured yeasts, yeast nutrients, and a clarifying agent. The second fermentation results in an increase in alcohol (~1.5% abv) and the production of carbon dioxide, which makes the wine sparkling.

After the liqueur de tirage is added, the wine is bottled and sealed, typically with a crown cap. Bottles are then stored horizontally at a constant temperature of 50 to 54 °F. Some producers use corks for certain cuvées. For example, Ruinart has introduced corks for its Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs cuvée, as they believe that cork imparts a richer and more complex aromatic profile, positively influencing the aging process.

Once the second fermentation in bottle is complete, the wine remains on its lees for an extended period. This stage is crucial in the production of Champagne, as well as all traditional method sparkling wines. During this time, the dead yeast cells undergo autolysis — an enzymatic breakdown that imparts the characteristic notes of pastry, brioche, and bread dough. The longer the wine stays on the lees, the more pronounced the autolytic character becomes.

By law, non-vintage Champagne must spend at least 12 months on the lees, with a total of 15 months maturing in the producer’s cellar. Vintage Champagne must spend at least 12 months on the lees and a minimum of three years after tirage before being released. In practice, most Champagnes are aged longer than the legal minimum. Entry-level wines from large houses typically spend 2 to 3 years on the lees, while vintage and special cuvées are often aged much longer — up to 5-10 years.

After aging on the lees, bottles are traditionally placed in riddling racks known as ‘pupitres’ for the ‘remuage’ (riddling) process. Riddling can be done by hand or machine. Traditionally, in Champagne, bottles are hand-riddled to slowly move the lees towards the neck of the bottle, a process that can take up to eight weeks. Today, machines such as gyropalettes are also used. These automated, computer-controlled machines accelerate the riddling process, completing the task in just a few days.

Once the lees are collected in the neck above the closure, they must be removed through disgorgement. While disgorgement was traditionally done manually, it is now mostly automated using special disgorgement equipment. The bottles are cooled, and their necks are frozen in brine to solidify the yeast sediment, preventing it from mixing with the wine and reducing the risk of gushing upon opening. The bottle is then inverted, and the crown cap is removed, allowing the frozen lees to be ejected by the bottle’s internal pressure.

The ‘liqueur d’expédition’ (or dosage) is a mix of wine and sugar that is added to top up the bottle and define the sweetness level of the final wine. This step also contributes to the wine’s overall profile. A liqueur d’expédition based on aged reserve wines imparts complex aromas such as dried fruit and honey. Conversely, if it is based on fresher, more youthful wines, the result is a lighter, fresher style. The dosage balances the high acidity in Champagne and the sugar content also plays a vital role in promoting the Maillard reaction, a process that develops roasted, toasted vanilla aromas. This reaction, along with the compounds derived from autolysis, contributes to the complexity and character of Champagne. Champagne labeled as Brut Nature contains no added dosage.

Once the liqueur de dosage is added and/or the bottle is topped up, a cylindrical cork is inserted into the bottle's neck, and a wire cage is fitted over the cork and firmly twisted to secure it in place. The bottle is then vigorously shaken to ensure proper integration of the liqueur de dosage. Subsequently, the bottle is returned to the cellar for a resting period, allowing the liqueur de dosage to integrate with the Champagne before it is ready for release to the market.

See also Part I and Part II. 

Want to read more? Take a look at some of our other blogs:

• • The secrets of Champagne Ruinart
  • Moët & Chandon and the timeless legacy of Dom Pérignon
  • Leclerc Briant emerges from the depths: Cuvée Abyss