Liquid Gold Part III: Tokaji
In the third part of our series on “Liquid Gold”, Westgarth Wines wine expert Maurizio Broggi turns to Tokaji to look at its special history and even more extraordinary terroir.
The Tokaj wine region, located in the northeastern corner of Hungary, is one of the world's most historic and distinguished wine regions. It is most famous for Tokaji Aszú, a sweet botrytized wine that has captured the imagination of connoisseurs and royalty for centuries. It's important to note that Tokaj refers to both the town and the region, whereas Tokaji specifically denotes the wine produced there.
The history of Tokaji
Tokaji dates back centuries, with the first documented mention of the wine appearing in 1571. In the 18th century, Tokaj was one of the first regions to establish a controlled wine appellation, classifying its vineyards and designating the villages permitted to bear the Tokaj name. It was also among the first to deliberately produce botrytized wine in the world. The process occurs when Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot, affects the grapes, causing them to shrivel and concentrate their sugars and flavors. This process, unique to certain regions with specific climatic conditions, is the key to the rich, sweet wines of Tokaj.
Tokaji wines became especially popular in the 17th and 18th centuries, where they were served at European royal courts. The region's wines, particularly Tokaji Aszú, were highly regarded in Hungary's royal court, and they were known to have been the preferred wine of Louis XIV of France, who famously referred to Tokaji Aszú as the "King of Wines." At this time, Tokaji Aszú was so highly esteemed that it was often presented as gifts to kings, nobility, and even the Pope.
However, the region's winemaking heritage faced challenges in the 20th century, especially during the Communist era (1945–1989). Under state-controlled wine production, quality took a backseat to quantity, and the traditional methods that had made Tokaji so revered were often abandoned. Wines were frequently over-sweetened, artificially fortified, and pasteurized, which led to a significant decline in the quality and prestige of Tokaji wines. Fortunately, after the fall of the Communist regime, the Tokaj wine industry began to recover. During the 1990s, with the help of international investments and a renewed focus on quality, Tokaji once again became a symbol of excellence in the world of wine.
The terroir of Tokaj
The unique terroir of Tokaj plays a significant role in the distinctive qualities of its wines. The region lies at 48°–49°N latitude, which places it in a moderate continental climate. The climate is characterized by hot summers and cold winters, with a growing season that benefits from warm, sunny autumns, ideal for the development of noble rot. The Tisza and Bodrog Rivers, which converge near the town of Tokaj, play a crucial role in creating autumn fogs that contribute to the formation of Botrytis cinerea. These fogs, followed by clear, sunny afternoons, provide perfect conditions for the development of noble rot on the grapes while limiting the harmful effects of grey rot.
The Zemplén Mountains help shield the vineyards from the harshest northern winds, and the slopes of the region are protected from the elements. Tokaj's vineyards are often planted on steep slopes, maximizing sun exposure while minimizing the effects of rain and frost. The soils in Tokaj are primarily volcanic in origin which contribute to the region's unique geological profile.
Tokaj is also home to historic cellars, often carved directly into the volcanic bedrock. The temperature and humidity levels in these cellars are naturally controlled, making them perfect for aging Tokaji wines. In fact, many of Tokaj's cellars are still maintained with the same conditions that were used for centuries.
Find out more about other styles of sweet 'noble rot' wines:
Stay tuned for Part IV on Tokaji's winemaking and wine styles.
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