One might believe that given its location and climate, Germany would surely be an unlikely home for viable wine production. But the Romans, known for their industriousness and ingenuity, obviously thought otherwise. The first to introduce vineyards to regions near the Mosel River, they established a love for winemaking which, while somewhat overshadowed by other European counties, continues to this day to be impressive in its own right.
As is the case with many historic winemaking regions, Germany benefitted from the dedication of monasteries. Both Benedictine and Cistercian religious orders cultivated pockets of land well beyond those nestled against the Mosel, bringing vinicultural experience that elevated both the process and the product. In fact, two of Germany’s most historic Rheingau region wineries, Schloss Johannisberg and Kloter Eberbach, both have their centuries-old origins rooted in monastic communities.
While more recently established German wineries are gradually changing the character of the country’s wine production, Germany’s signature varietal continues to be Riesling. First noted in the mid-15th century, Riesling grapes account for the majority of German vineyards as well as many of Germany’s very best wines, with a dominant presence in regions including Mosel, Rheingau, Nahe and Pfalz. By the early 1700s, Schloss Johannisberg was the first producer to dedicate itself exclusively to Riesling, and the subsequent introduction of the Botrytis cinerea fungus, which yielded the “noble rot”-driven sweetness so characteristic of France’s Sauternes offerings, brought about a growing demand for German whites. By the 1800s, Rhine wines were carrying prices that exceeded even the mighty first-growth Bordeaux.
Perhaps predictably, demand ushered in a temporary decline in quality. Because regions best known for Riesling vineyards are vulnerable to harsher climate changes, the grape often faced issues with growth and ripening. This prompted creative mid-20th century winemakers to explore more substantial substitutes such as Muller-Thurgau and Silvaner to drive greater yields and support less than abundant Riesling harvests. The practice met with unenthusiastic responses from traditional winemakers who eventually established what is known as the VDP Association, a collective of wine producing regions dedicated to maintaining the quality and idiosyncratic characteristics of their respective products.
Historically, Germany’s white wines, which make up over 60% of the country’s production, have leaned towards the sweeter side. Known especially for their ability to strike a delicate balance between sweetness and acidity, many are comparable to French dessert wines, and are considered some of the best on the global market. But in response to 21st century consumer trends, German winemakers have recently been focusing more of their attention on drier wines, especially those more suitable for food pairings. The country’s dominant red varietals, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir, grown in Baden, Pfalz and the northernmost Ahr Valley) and Dornfelder (a juicier, fruiter, floral and more deeply colored crossing) are at the heart of reds that are rapidly gaining both popularity and renown. Featuring delicately subtle tannins and appealing acidity, these wines have solidified Germany’s presence on the red wine landscape.
Interestingly, Germany has taken legal steps to ensure that the quality of her wines continues to shine. Newer wine laws have established two categories of quality wines: one by region (Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete, or QbA), and the other by attributes (Prädikatswein). The latter also features six subcategories, ranking the wines from driest to sweetest, and is focused more on the ripeness and maturity of the grape at harvest time. The wines also undergo analytical testing to ensure quality compliance, with scores listed on their labels. The steps involved are yet another representation of Germany’s dedication to transitioning into a new generation of great wine while staying true to its historic past.
