Leclerc Briant emerges from the depths: Cuvée Abyss
Leclerc Briant, a storied and even pioneering name in the world of Champagne, once found itself on the brink of obscurity, but its redemption came in the unlikely form of one of Champagne’s most unique expressions: Abyss
An historic house
Established in 1872, the house adopted organic and biodynamic viticulture long before these practices became trendy. During the 1960s, Bertrand Leclerc was among the first in the Champagne region to embrace organic farming. His son Pascal later converted the estate to biodynamics in the late 1980s. In itself, this is a more challenging undertaking given the climate of the region and therefore is the reserve of only the most resilient winemakers.
However, after Pascal's untimely death in 2010, the house struggled to maintain its footing, with inheritance taxes and pressures eventually leading to the sale of prized vineyard land as well as a significant downsizing of operations. Leclerc Briant seemed destined to fade into the background, a shadow of its former self.
A new era begins
However, this narrative of decline took a dramatic turn in 2012 when American couple Mark Nunelly and Denise Dupré acquired the house. Their purchase was not merely a rescue operation but a deliberate move to restore Leclerc Briant to its former glory.
Enter Cellarmaster Hervé Jestin, a biodynamic expert with a reputation for pushing the boundaries of traditional winemaking. Jestin, with his innovative and sometimes unconventional methods, breathed new life into Leclerc Briant, aligning perfectly with the owners’ vision for a Champagne house deeply connected to nature. The result has been a revival of the brand, with a particular focus on low- to zero-dosage Champagnes that resonate with the modern consumer’s palate.
Resurfacing
Among the many experimental cuvées that Jestin has introduced, Cuvée Abyss stands out as a unique exploration of the limits of winemaking.
The concept of underwater aging is as fascinating as it is unique. Abyss, a Brut Zero Champagne, is aged for 15 months under the Atlantic Ocean, submerged 60 meters deep off the coast of the Breton island of Ouessant. This is not just a marketing gimmick; Jestin believes that the constant movement of the ocean, along with the consistent temperature and pressure, imparts a distinct character to the wine.
The art of marine élevage
Underwater aging is said to create a “permanent dynamization” of the wine, where the natural rhythms of the ocean interact with the Champagne. The lack of light, stable pressure, and cold temperature at these depths prevent oxidation, allowing the wine to age gracefully. Moreover, the gentle sway of the currents ensures that the wine remains in a state of subtle agitation, potentially leading to a finer and more integrated mousse.
Though the mantra goes “Wine is made in the vineyard”, Cuvée Abyss’s submerged aging process infuses the art of élevage with the element of another distinct terroir; the ocean. This process, Jestin asserts, allows the Champagne to reach its “most natural form,” embodying a harmony that would be difficult to achieve through traditional aging methods.
Dive into the Abyss
Leclerc Briant’s Cuvée Abyss is nothing short of extraordinary. The wine presents itself with an ethereal quality as though it embodies the essence of the ocean within its mousse. On the nose, Abyss is immediately captivating with aromas of fresh peach, zesty lemons, and green apple, all underpinned by a pronounced minerality that hints at the saline environment where it was aged.
On the palate, Abyss is precise and elegant. After an initial burst of citrus, the lack of dosage is masked by the generosity of fruit, making it approachable yet deeply complex. Hints of peach and apple are revealed, complemented by subtle texture and an impressive continual evolution in the glass.
A delicate salinity emerges, reminiscent of a sea breeze, adding a layer of intrigue to the wine that is not overwhelming but rather perfectly balanced with the wine’s fruit-forward character. The texture is both creamy and crisp, with a taut mineral core and a lingering and refreshing finish.
Cuvée Abyss captures both an enigmatic narrative of the ocean’s mysteries and the patient craftsmanship of a house that has rediscovered its soul. In the world of fine Champagne, where tradition often reigns supreme, Abyss is a bold statement – an exploration of what Champagne can be for those who dare to discover.
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