The basics of biodynamic winemaking
Some of the world’s finest wineries follow the practice of biodynamic winemaking, a process that seeks to turn vineyards and winery into an interconnected, holistic ecosystem. It follows the movements of the heavens – a waxing or waning moon could make or break both your wine and woodworking. It is based on the idea that everything is interconnected and aims to cultivate healthy soils and vines in harmony with nature. While it may sound a little out-there to some people, many top wineries such as Chateau Palmer ascribe to it.
A brief history of biodynamics
Biodynamics are based on the work of Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925), an Austrian philosopher, who developed biodynamics as a farming technique in the 1920s. In the 40s, Maria Thune grew interested in biodynamics and went on to develop biodynamic calendars. When it came to wine, one of the earliest converts was Nicolas Joly, the winemaker in the Loire Valley who became known as ‘the godfather of biodynamics’.
Main principles
One of the major factors in biodynamics is following the biodynamic calendar, in which days are divided into 'Fruit Days', 'Root Days', 'Flower Days', and 'Leaf Days'. What day it is will dictate what tasks on the farm are undertaken including everything from pruning to picking.
The various preparations used to treat the plants are another factor – and perhaps one that gives some people pause, such as preparation number 500, in which cow dung is placed inside a cow horn and buried for the winter. It is later dug out and turned into a spray applied to vines. The purpose? To strengthen soil structure and vitalize the biosystem including everything from earthworms to fungi.
Interestingly, the reason the preparations have numbers is that Germany banned biodynamics under the rule of the Third Reich, so the numbers were developed to communicate about it in code.
Biodynamic certifications
It takes quite a bit of documentation and effort to acquire and uphold a biodynamic certification. The most recognized of these certifications is Demeter. Biodyvin is another organization that certifies a handful of European wines. However, due to the cost and labor of achieving certifications, there are wine producers who follow the practice but don’t opt for official documentation, or follow some but not all of the biodynamic processes.
Biodynamic wineries
Nicolas Joly was the OG supporter of biodynamics, a practice that has spread all over France. In Bordeaux, Château Palmer and Pontet-Canet follow it. Alsace’s Zind-Humbrecht, Burgundy’s Domaine Leroy and the Rhône Valley’s Michel Chapoutier subscribe to it as well. And that glass of Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne in your hand? That’s right, you better believe those grapes were picked on Fruit Day – and the Roederer based out of California likewise uses biodynamic preparations.
What does it mean for my wine?
You can be assured that a biodynamic wine has been closely supervised; nursed from vine to bottle with the utmost attention to detail. That may not necessarily denote a quality level, but generally, the more care put into something, the better the results. Try some of these biodynamic bottles and see for yourself.
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