Margaret River: The Bordeaux of Australia
Far-flung from Australia’s biggest winemaking regions, the Margaret River region lies on the west coast and has been making some of the most delectable Bordeaux blends in the continent. Much like Bordeaux, its mediterranean climate has strong maritime influences. The confluence of the Indian and Southern Oceans, with the warming influence of the Indian Ocean, helps to bring the grapes to ideal ripeness. That climate, along with the area’s well-draining gravelly soils, has drawn comparisons to Bordeaux given its ability to produce similarly-styled blends. The soil’s low fertility also plays a role, moderating the vigor of the vine.
Tom Cullity first planted in the region in 1967, founding Vasse Felix, which signaled the start of many new vineyards and wineries – Moss Wood, Cape Mentelle, and Cullen to name a few. Wine leader Robert Mondavi, known for seeing Napa’s potential, was so sure of Margaret River’s promise that he prodded Denis Horgan to start Leeuwin Estate, now also one of the region’s most prominent names.
It was the Cabernets that first garnered attention in the 1970s, and, following in the Bordeaux vein, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon are also common. More recently, though not a Bordeaux varietal so to speak, Margaret River is also getting a name for some exceptional Chardonnays.
It is a stunning region, punctuated by capes at the north and south. There’s a variety of ancient landforms ranging from crystalline rocks to the west to gneiss and granite formations dated to as old as 1600 million years old. Between shorelines, forests, and streams there is much to be seen, but if you can’t make it there, drinking the region’s wine is the next best thing, no?
You could start Vasse Felix; the original! The Tom Cullity bottling shown above, named for the founder, blends a touch of Malbec with Cabernet Sauvignon. Whereas if you'd prefer a bottle named after a woman, try the Cullen Wines Diana Madeline, a robust and structured blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. The 2014 is ultimately ageable, just reaching its ideal drinking window where it should remain for another decade at least.
For a great Chardonnay, look to Moss Wood. Planted in 1969, they were the second winery after Vasse Felix to set up shop in the region. This full-bodied delight hails from Wilyabrup and promises a firm structure with layers of fruit and caramel framed by soft, toasted oak character. Its chalky acidity lends it a distinct freshness, but also superb aging potential if you can be tempted to hold onto it for a bit longer.
Cloudburst is another fantastic Chardonnay option. Adopting a minimal intervention approach and utilizing wild fermentation, it expresses the unique quality of this biodiverse region. Cooling maritime breezes balance out the warmer climate for a steady ripening period and ultimately a more layered wine. Bursting with aromatic complexity, structure, and acidity, this rich white offers an impressive lifespan that rivals their reds.
Leeuwin, the aforementioned Mondavi brainchild, is notable for their Art Series which features both a Chardonnay and Cabernet as well as – interestingly since not so much Syrah is planted in the area – a Shiraz! With its terrific bouquet of freshly dried peppercorns, it toes the line between lush fruit and savory character with balance and harmony. For those of you that immediately associate Australia with its superb expressions of Syrah, this one is a must for your bucket list.
Those are just a few options to get you going. So next time you find yourself tempted to open a Bordeaux, why not take a virtual trip to Margaret River instead with one of these excellent bottles? You won’t be sorry.
Cheers!
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