Stephanie Wangui: Swapping the corkscrew for vineyard life in Burgundy
With Black History Month in full swing, we meet Stephanie Wangui, a sommelier turned Burgundy viticulture intern. Born in Kenya and raised in the UK, Stephanie worked her way up to the role of senior sommelier at Noble Rot, one of London’s most prestigious and dynamic wine bar and restaurant groups. A chance encounter with Félicien Roulot while gaining pruning experience in Spain later helped her connect with Domaine Roulot’s current proprietor, Jean-Marc Roulot. In January, she swapped her corkscrew for secateurs and moved to Bourgogne, where she’s immersing herself in vineyard work at the prestigious estate and exploring the region’s phenomenal wines (and food!). Westgarth Wines speaks with Stephanie about her journey at the domaine, mastering the local lingo, her favorite food and wine pairings, and her hopes for the future.
What’s exciting you most about your placement at the domaine?
I’ve managed to bag a full season at Domaine Jean-Marc Roulot! I couldn’t be more excited and grateful for this opportunity, what a way to kick off my journey.
Can you describe a typical day at Domaine Roulot? What are your responsibilities and how will they change as the months pass?
We’re in the vineyards from 08:00 to 17:00, with a well-earned hour and a quarter for lunch. For now, Fridays are half-days, but once the vines wake from their winter slumber, my hours will stretch a bit. Winter pruning is in full swing. I’ve learnt the Guyot Poussard method, with a few inherited Cordon-Royat vines thrown into the mix. As the season unfolds, I’ll be learning to ‘plum,’ train the canes, de-bud, hoe, trim, and defoliate (where needed), all leading up to the carnival that is harvest.
What’s harder work physically: Sommelier or winemaker?
I definitely worked long hours and spent a lot of time on my feet as a sommelier, especially when wine pallets arrived and needed to be carried down to the cellar before service - a solid workout in itself. But I can honestly say that working in viticulture is even more physically demanding. My core is constantly engaged to protect my back while pruning, and I’m pretty sure I frog squat at least a hundred times a day. At this point, yoga has become my best friend.
The domaine is renowned for its Premier Cru Chardonnay but produces Bourgogne Rouge too. Are you getting the chance to work with all of Roulot’s grape varieties or focusing on a few vineyards and wines?
I indeed get to work with all the domaine’s varieties from both Auxey-Duresses and Meursault, from village-level wines to the revered Premier Crus. Some of the vines I’ve pruned were planted pre-WWII - a fact that blows my mind and makes me a little nervous as I snip away with my electric secateur.
What Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) training did you get during your time at Noble Rot?
I wizzed through levels 2 and 3 in-house before being sponsored to complete my diploma at the WSET School in Bermondsey, London. Although it’s an external program, there are usually a few more ‘rotters’ in each cohort, so you still get to continue studying alongside your colleagues.
You studied chemistry at university and you’ve said that you have a scientific mind. Do you find this side of you is being satisfied with viticulture and winemaking?
Somewhat within viticulture, though it’s more about plant biology and technical pruning methods for now. I’ve got my nose buried in René Lafon’s Modifications à Apporter à la Taille de la Vigne dans les Charentes and François Dal’s SICAVAC Guide de Taille, building my foundation from the roots up. Only once I’ve got that solid base will I dive into gaining some cellar experience which will more than satisfy my scientific curiosity. That said, this métier isn’t all science – that’s what makes it so enthralling. It’s a blend of art, science, philosophy, terroir, history, culture, and a pinch of magic.
How are you finding the Burgundy food and wine culture?
Winter pruning is the quiet season, so I’m working 35.5 a week. I honestly can’t remember the last time I had this much free time. I’ve started cooking daily, enjoying leisurely strolls through Saturday morning markets to pick up fresh produce for the week ahead. From butchers and cheesemongers to fine spice shops, there’s an épicerie for just about everything. Being able to source directly from local farmers and specialists feels like a real privilege.
Burgundy and wine? Now that’s a love story written in every glass. Here, wine isn’t just a drink, it’s a way of life. Whether it’s swapping notes with colleagues, exploring wine bars, or picking the brains of expert cavistes, there’s always something new to sip and savour.
More generally, what’s exciting you most about being in Burgundy?
Every morning, I wake up with a smile, still a little stunned that this is my new life. It’s like my own personal Disneyland… only with better wine. Living in the picturesque Beaune, driving through the appellations I used to study and recommend, and strolling through vineyards like I’m part of the scenery. I’m surrounded by winemakers, soaking in French culture, and actually speaking the language.
Speaking of which…how’s your French?
C’est parti! Many moons ago, I spent eighteen months in Bordeaux for my year abroad. While my comprehension is better than I expected, there’s still plenty of room for improvement. I’m doubling down on my studies not just to boost my skills, but to (hopefully) ace my DELF B2 exams later this year.
What’s the most important contribution you think you can make during your time at Domaine Roulot?
Energy, excitement, and the chance to learn from my colleagues as they share their knowledge and shape my journey. And I can’t wait to share wines from around the world. Bottles some of them may not have had the chance to taste yet… blind.
What’s the most important skill you think you’re going to come away with?
A deep appreciation for the dedication and craftsmanship behind these boundary-defying wines. Moreover, the technical skills that will open doors to other domaines, allowing me to keep expanding my experience after this season.
Your journey into wine was unexpected. What do you see ahead in your direction with this new chapter or are you simply taking the experience one day at a time?
Since stepping into the world of wine, I’ve learned to let go of my instinct to plan and control everything. Instead, I trust the process, stay curious, and make a point to network with purpose. I aim to be the least knowledgeable person in the room, so I can learn as much as possible, and seize every opportunity.
Finally, for our foodies, with your Noble Rot sommelier experience, do you have a top takeaway food and wine pairing tip?
Fish and chips by the sea, paired with a crisp Blanc de Blancs from a cooler vintage (or a solid, vintage English sparkling if you can track down decent plonk stateside). For something with a kick, spicy Southeast Asian food with a glass of Kabinett (JJ Prüm is king).
Shop Domaine Roulot's wines here.
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