Lamb & Rioja for fall feasts
While some parts of the world are bracing for winter, the Mediterranean still feels like summer. This transitional season inspired my selection of wines, perfectly paired with a dish that Greeks enjoy year-round: lamb kleftiko. This flavorful twist on roasted lamb is typically cooked with mizithra cheese, olive oil, onions, carrots, garlic, and herbs, and served alongside lemon roast potatoes.
Steeped in history, lamb kleftiko is said to be named after the Klephts, a group of thieves who secretly cooked stolen lamb in an underground pit to avoid detection. Slowly roasting the lamb shoulder makes the meat fall off the bone, creating a tender, succulent dish. While homemade wine might suffice when you are on a Greek island, an aged Rioja at home offers a more refined pairing.
Our Sommelier’s picks for October
Rioja is an incredibly diverse region, the only area in Spain where three major climate patterns – continental, Atlantic, and Mediterranean – converge. The region’s soils are just as varied, contributing to its wide range of wine styles. Despite their world-class quality, Rioja’s top wines remain remarkably affordable compared to other fine wine regions. Below are five of my favorite Riojas, perfect for a fall lunch and an extraordinary pairing with lamb.
Starting with a cult classic that has earned a global following, Marqués de Murrieta’s Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial 2010 was named Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year in 2020. Made from a blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, Mazuelo, and Garnacha, this wine is generous yet gentle, lively, balanced, and harmonious. It earned 97 points from The Wine Advocate’s Luis Gutiérrez, who noted, "I had very high expectations for the 2010 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, and the wine delivered as expected."
Marqués de Murrieta is one of the oldest bodegas in Rioja. Calling it pioneering is no exaggeration – Don Luciano Murrieta, after learning winemaking techniques in Bordeaux, produced the world’s first Rioja in 1852. Since then, the winery has remained at the forefront of the region’s best.
At this quality level, the 2009 Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva is an exceptional bargain. This classic cuvée, a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and 10% Mazuelo and Graciano, underwent an extended élevage of over three years, alternating between newer and older barrels. Despite 2009 being a warm and ripe year, Luis Gutiérrez called it “one of the great recent vintages of Prado Enea.” Expect a silky, juicy wine with notes of red berries, potpourri, incense, and vanilla.
Bodegas Muga is universally considered to be one of Spain’s most significant winemaking families. Their meticulous attention to detail is exemplified by the fact that they are the only cellar in Spain with an in-house master cooper and barrel makers.
“A classic among classics in a classic vintage,” according to Gutiérrez, the 2010 CVNE Rioja Gran Reserva Imperial is a spicy, slightly oaky Rioja without excesses. With its earthy texture, this serious wine is a perfect pairing for roasted lamb. In magnum format, it’s ideal for sharing, and the 2010 vintage is drinking spectacularly well this year.
CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) is one of Spain’s most renowned and historic bodegas. Founded in 1879 by the Real de Asúa brothers, Eusebio and Raimundo, the winery has played a key role in Rioja’s rise to global prominence in fine wine.
The 2015 Artadi Viña El Pison comes from a single Tempranillo vineyard planted in 1945. Despite an élevage of only nine months, the wine shows impeccable balance and has earned impressive accolades from critics. James Suckling gave it 99 points, noting that “the strength, yet agility of this wine is so impressive with deep and dark aromas of blackberries, dried mushrooms and flowers”. It also has 98+ points from Gutiérrez who said that “the nose is nothing short of phenomenal, open and complex with tons of flowers, red fruits, wild herbs and subtle spices” and “the palate reveals outstanding balance, refined tannins and focused, precise flavors, nicely textured and chiseled, with verticality plus volume”.
Artadi’s philosophy towards organic and sustainable viticulture champions ‘respectful’ winemaking, with a focus on making unique and elegant wines that reveal a true sense of place.
The flagship wine of La Rioja Alta, the 2010 Gran Reserva 890 is a blend of Tempranillo (95%) and Mazuelo (2%) from estate-owned vineyards in Briñas, Labastida and Villalba and Graciano (3%) from their Montecillo vineyard.
The estate describes 2010 as one of their “most Atlantic vintages”, which has enabled them to create wines of great freshness and complexity, destined for long aging. According to Gutiérrez, who awarded it 97 points, “the wine epitomizes the classical style of Rioja Alta with long aging in barrel, developed and tertiary wines with a silky palate and a complex and decadent nose of forest floor, truffles, cigar ash and cedar wood”. The critic also called 2010 “one of the finest vintages for this wine”. It is a must-have, perfect for a fall gathering.
As the days grow cooler, these extraordinary wines will bring warmth and depth to any meal, ensuring that your fall feasts are both memorable and delicious.
Cheers!
Take a look at some of our other hand-picked wine selections here:
