Beaujolais beyond Nouveau
The third Thursday in November is here again, and wine lovers around America have an identical entry in their diaries: Beaujolais Nouveau.
This day has become synonymous with fun and delightfully frivolous tasting events of a purple-colored, fresh, fruity red with pleasing bubblegum hints. Its light, easy-drinking profile reflects the fact that it’s, most probably, the fastest wine in world history! From harvest to appearing in our glasses, Beaujolais Nouveau is produced and bottled in only six, tops, eight weeks after harvest. Its youthful profile means it’s made to be drunk quickly too, and selling after the following August is forbidden.
While some make a note about Beaujolais Nouveau and look forward to an entertaining evening of sipping on its special day, others leave that spot in their diaries blank – and deliberately so! It goes down well, it’s pretty and is great for parties, but some also know there’s more to this Gamay wine than the river of light and lively red vino that flows on the third Thursday of November.
Beyond the popular appeal of Beaujolais Nouveau lies a deeper side to the region’s winemaking tradition: Beaujolais Cru and Villages. Produced from the region’s finest terroirs, these wines are known for their complexity, age-worthiness, and approachable elegance, making them valuable additions to any serious wine collection.
What’s the back story to Beaujolais Nouveau?
The answer to this question takes us to 19th-century France when producers in what would become the Beaujolais appellation developed a tradition which saw them toasting each vintage with a sip of new wine. Fast forward to 1951, and Beaujolais producers introduced a rule that skirted the formal French appellation laws of the 1930s. This move allowed the release of their young harvest wine on the third Thursday in November rather than the widely authorized December threshold.
Local producers with astute marketing minds soon saw an opportunity to build excitement around their early red wine release and Beaujolais Nouveau Day was born. Long story short, the hype grew and spread first around France, before expanding to Europe, North America, and Asia where restaurants, bars, and wine stores capitalize on its limited release status today.
In America, until the early 1970s, New York was the only city to import Beaujolais Nouveau. Minneapolis followed and the rest is history. Today, this fun wine is found in about every metropolis around the country with tastings a-plenty to celebrate its arrival. Its annual release just a week ahead of the Thanksgiving holiday has helped it become a festive red wine on many a table up until the New Year, and its popularity shows no sign of slowing down.
Beaujolais Nouveau has its critics. Some see its celebration day as nothing more than a marketing ploy for a raw red with little finesse. That said, the public loves it and why not? Fruity, vibrant, and light bodied, it’s a crowd pleaser that can be enjoyed without getting too.
Beaujolais vs Burgundy
This is where things get serious so, for now at least, put Nouveau out of your mind. One fact that can escape even the most wine savvy wine lover is that Beaujolais is often regarded as part of Burgundy. Located just below Burgundy’s southernmost sub-region, the Mâconnais, Beaujolais is crafted from Gamay rather than Pinot Noir. Its soils range from clay to volcanic schist and granite rather than limestone, sand, and flint. However, like its acclaimed northern neighbour, it boasts an appellation system that features finessed wines at its apex.
At the bottom tier of the appellation pyramid is Beaujolais (from which Nouveau comes), followed by excellent-quality Beaujolais-Villages, and capped by age-worthy Cru Beaujolais.
There are 10 Crus, each offering a unique profile that reflects distinct terroirs and winemaking approaches.
As trends shift and change in the wine world be it warmer vineyards or more discerning drinking, Beaujolais is finding a place that distinguishes it even more from Burgundy – and for all the right reasons.
The rise of Beaujolais Crus
The higher end of Beaujolais is gaining recognition. At the start of the millennium, Beaujolais Cru wines constituted just over a quarter of the region’s production at 26%. Two decades later in 2020, this had risen to 43%.
Beaujolais Villages makes up an additional 26% meaning that more than two-thirds of Beaujolais wine is classed as premium. Contrast this with the early 1990s when Beaujolais Nouveau accounted for more than half of production.
Cru terroir and winemaking
Beaujolais Nouveau grapes come from the south of the region where predominantly clay soils enable mass production of the Gamay grape. This November wine is famously produced through the aforementioned process, carbonic maceration. In this winemaking stage, whole grapes ferment in a carbon dioxide-rich in a CO₂-rich environment, with most of the fermentation happening inside intact berries while others are crushed naturally. Carbonic maceration results in fruity, softly tannic, red wines with notes of banana, cinnamon, kirsch, and bubblegum and there is no oak influence.
The crus differ in both terroir and winemaking approaches. Vines for premium Beaujolais are cultivated in the north of the region where superior, well-draining, granite soils act like a bootcamp for the Gamay grape. Vines have to dig deep for nutrients, resulting in lower yields and finer quality berries with the structure that lends itself to aging. Vineyards are east and south-east facing for steady grape ripening and higher altitudes mean more diurnal range, leading to fruit with more character.
Traditionally, Beaujolais Gamay was grown in a “gobelet” bush-like style but the cru producers are converting to trellising which is better suited to sloped vineyards, resulting in healthier fruit.
Depending on the particular cru, in the winery, vignerons may or may not use the carbonic maceration approach. Grapes tend to undergo traditional crushing and soaking, and some see maturation in oak casks. On the whole, the current trend is increasingly towards traditional Burgundy-style vinification, a move which is revealing a new face of Beaujolais that’s still intensely fruity and approachable, but refined, layered, complex, and cellar-worthy.
Advantages of Beaujolais
From the accessibility of its wines to the robustness of the Gamay grape, the Beaujolais region has key points working in its favor which support the foundations of its growing success.
Approachability
With the Nouveau style so well-known, it’s a simple step to start exploring the more serious styles of Beaujolais without the “intimidation factor” that can surround higher-end French wines. Beaujolais Cru and Villages are consumer-friendly while still reflecting centuries of wine heritage.
Climate change
The Gamay grape has responded well to the region’s vintages which have become warmer over the last decade. It is ideally positioned to adapt to any climatic changes ahead without serious disruption to viticulture and winemaking.
Sustainability
A new generation of winemakers is carrying on a legacy of environmentally sensitive viticulture which both achieves sustainability for future generations of winemakers and satisfies a consumer appetite for environmental awareness. The region has witnessed a growth in organic certifications over the last ten years.
Innovation
A new generation of highly skilled, experienced, well-traveled, and forward-thinking young winemakers is harnessing the Beaujolais region’s potential with a bold, quality-focused approach.
Quality
Beaujolais producers are cooperating to elevate select vineyards to Premier Cru status, citing terroir-driven winemaking and rising status based on tastings, value, and reputation. Brouilly and Fleurie are at the forefront of this drive which would mean vineyards following stricter regulations, like lower yields and extended aging to tease out even higher quality wines.
Accessible price point
Beaujolais Cru and Villages winemakers are succeeding in balancing finessed, nuanced production with accessible prices - for the time being at least!
Renowned Beaujolais Crus for your table and cellar
Features: Seen as the most structured and powerful of the Beaujolais Crus, Moulin-à-Vent features concentrated red fruit, good tannins, herby notes, earthy hints, and spice.
Ideal for: Fans of Burgundy who appreciate good tannic structure and aging potential.
Features: Brouilly is the largest of the Crus, turning out lively wines displaying red berry in a soft, approachable style with gentle tannins and bright acidity.
Ideal for: Those who enjoy the Nouveau style but are looking for something next level with vibrancy and a fruit-forward profile.
So, by all means, celebrate and drink up the lively, bright red wine on Beaujolais Nouveau Day. With a little imagination, it’s not hard to detect the subtlety of the Gamay grape and taste its potential, leading you to a new world of Beaujolais in its premium Cru and Villages expressions. Even better, you can drink them all year round! Santé!
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