Anteprima Amarone, an event bringing out both the new Amarone vintage and its makers to take measure of the wine’s place in the world, was held recently, bringing into focus both the wine’s strengths and weaknesses. Amarone is made in the Veneto by drying the grapes of primarily Corvina, along with several other varieties to concentrate sugars and create flavors. In a time of global warming one of the potential downsides is an overly alcoholic wine that tastes of desiccated fruit—both things that can be sidestepped with proper timing of picking and finessed winemaking. Strengths of Amarone include the idiosyncratic nature of a wine made from varieties unique to Verona, and the changes they undergo in the drying process that create far more than just a taste of raisins. It has a history and sense of terroir. Read on for favorite picks!
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