2010, Joh Jos Prum, Bernkasteler BAdstube Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel

Mosel, Germany

(Priced at per bottle)

Score: 93

Drinking Dates: 2012-2027

Critic: David Schildknecht

Tasted: 23-Dec-2011

Katharina Prum seeks to assure me that a 2010 Bernkasteler Badstube Auslese gold capsule represents her family s first-ever Badstube bottling of that designation. As with the corresponding Zeltinger, she says this was simply too ripe to call it merely Auslese. There is brown spice pungency here more pronouncedly than one expects to encounter in Mosel Riesling which when allied to chewy apple and pear skin as well as lemon and lime zest engenders enormous invigoration in a wine whose brightly juicy citricity and sense of mineral impingement as it is serve for vibratory, near-electric intensity and finishing persistence. This doesn t approach the refinement, intricacy, or seductive allure of the corresponding Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, but taken on its own terms represents a memorable achievement almost sure to remain robust for close to a half century.