A daring upstart in the fine wine world, 22-acre Ulysee Collin is the story of a homecoming. Based in Congy in the Coteaux du Sezanne, it is run by Olivier Collin, who reclaimed his family’s centuries-old vineyards in 2003 after years of renting the property to Champagnenegóciants. Now producing many of the region’s most dynamic, terroir-driven wines, Ulysee Collin is well on its way to achieving a cult status. Like many winemakers, Olivier stands by the process of oak barrel fermentation. But due to his aversion to copper’s effects on the grape, he has not joined the trend of organic farming. Defining his mission as “working the culture of the vines with his brain and winemaking with his sensitivity,” Olivier holds back up to 40% of his wines as reserves, with the aging process of his base wines now reaching 13 months. Ulysee Collin currently produces 45,000 bottles per year, and features five deep, fruity, complex and intense wines, each a single-vineyard cuveé. Olivier hopes that his unique wines will mature with grace. With less than 20 years in production, time will be the judge, but for now, Ulysee Collin’s offerings are some of the most compelling and exciting on the market.