November 11th marks the historic Veterans Day in the United States and Armistice Day in the UK, Europe, and beyond. In honor of this memorial, Westgarth Wines takes a look beyond the battlefields to the role wine has played in resistance, rejoicing, and renewal in times of conflict.

Yes, it does! Few drinks say glamor and celebration like a glass of Champagne. When opened with the act of sabrage, removing the cork with a deft stroke of a sword, the allure is heightened!

This dramatic ritual can be traced to the early 19th century when Napoleon’s armies were crossing Europe. After each successful battle, the Hussar cavalry would reward themselves with a good gulp of Champagne without even dismounting. How, you ask? They would brandish their sabers and, with unrivaled panache, slice open a bottle by striking it at its weakest point close to the neck, allowing the contents to flow cleanly from the bottle. Champagne sabrage emerged!

Houses like Moët & Chandon, Ruinart, and Taittinger had already established reputations by the time Napoleon was sweeping across the continent. It was natural that this sparkling wine followed the self-proclaimed emperor wherever he went, inspiring his iconic words: “In victory one deserves it; in defeat one needs it.”

In World War II, during the German occupation of France from 1940-1945, French wine became a symbol of resilience and defiance. The top brass of the occupying army knew a good thing when they saw – or tasted it. As such, huge quantities of prized Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, and Alsace wines were confiscated and sent to Germany for army officers, political party officials, and civilians to enjoy – and to serve as a reminder to the French of enemy dominance.

French winemakers were obliged to fulfil strict quotas or face fines, seizure, or prison. This bulk export of wine nearly drained wine cellars across the country and weakened French cultural and economic strength. Against this grim background, winemakers defiantly hid or disguised their finest vintages to avoid detection and confiscation by the enemy. They fitted their cellars with false walls, buried treasured wines, or even replaced the best wines with inferior products in an effort to hoodwink the occupiers and to preserve culture.

After the war, these stashes were recovered. As the Allies advanced into enemy territory after D-Day, soldiers discovered caches of looted wine destined for German officers’ lips and civilians’ tables and restored them to their rightful owners, a gesture that symbolized continuity and survival.

During the same war, French wine cellars were not only adapted to hide valuable wines; they also saved lives. Winemakers bravely used hidden rooms, false walls, and clandestine tunnels to shelter French Resistance fighters, Jewish people, and others who all had in common the need to flee from the persecution of the occupying army. These fugitives spent days, weeks, and even months in concealment as they evaded patrols.

Maurice Drouhin of Burgundy winemaking fame was a critical figure in the French Resistance, who, once detected by the Gestapo, escaped by navigating the family's 13th-century cellars, emerging through the now-legendary “Door of Freedom” to access the Hospices de Beaune. The Mother Superior hid him there for several months until the area was liberated. With a big “merci”, the vigneron later donated two hectares of his best vines to the Hospices.

These country-wide, communal acts of defiance mark some of the proudest passages in French wine history.

On 6 June 1944, after months of logistical planning, troop training, and tactics aimed at misleading the enemy, Allied forces stormed the beaches of Normandy, marking the beginning of the end of World War II.

Led by General Dwight D. Eisenhower, as the troops gradually crossed Northern France and regained occupied territory, they were welcomed by grateful and relieved locals with bottles of fine wine and Champagne. Keeping in mind that many of the soldiers were from ordinary backgrounds, they had never tasted the likes of Champagne before – and it went down well. It’s fair to say, the World War II vineyards can claim a pivotal role in wartime morale!

It wasn’t just wine that played a role in the Allied invasion and liberation of France; British Spitfire pilots famously dropped barrels of ale for frontline soldiers, and Canadian regiments developed a liking for the local apple brandy, Calvados.

Vineyards didn’t escape the destruction of warfare in both World Wars in Europe. When peace resumed, embodying the spirit of renewal and resilience, winemakers toiled tirelessly and meticulously to restore ruined vine holdings and properties through new plantings, repairs to châteaux, and recovery of looted wines.

These endeavors weren’t just practical: post-war vineyard recovery symbolized the preservation of centuries of culture, wine heritage, and precious, age-old French identity. This revival helped infuse new life into villages and towns through the provision of employment and a sense of heritage continuity, leading to the great wine regions of France reclaiming their global names.

So, on November 11th, as we remember those who made the ultimate sacrifice, let’s also raise a toast to the vignerons who’ve played a vital role in wine culture and rituals and preservation of viticultural heritage during times of war.

Feature image: Sud Ouest

Want to read more? Take a look at some of our other blogs:

• • Sabrage like Napoleon’s Hussars
  • 15 Iconic American history moments…and wine
  • Drink like a President