“We plant ungrafted varieties on soils that gave birth to them. When you do that, you re-discover the pre-phylloxeric taste—2000 years of history in Bordeaux,” says Loïc Pasquet of Liber Pater, the Bordelaise house that shakes things up to produce extraordinary wines. His wines run at price tags that those of us who buy fine wine wouldn’t sneeze at—Pasquet says the latest release of 2015 will be 34,000 dollars. But how else can one taste such history? Pasquet works painstakingly to make wines that show the terroir. His methods, such as using amphorae, may have him at odds with the INAO at times, but his belief in Liber Pater as a true expression of Bordeaux fuels his fire.
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