Sherry is one of wine’s great chameleons – dry and saline, nutty and savory, or lusciously sweet – yet too often misunderstood. After a 1970s boom and a long lull, it’s back on America’s best wine lists and enjoying its place in the cocktail revival. For Sherry Week, here’s a clear guide to what it is, how it’s made, the styles you’ll see, and how to drink it – without getting lost in jargon.

Wine has been made around Jerez in Andalusia for over two millennia. Phoenician merchants planted vines; Romans traded the wines; Moorish rule preserved viticultural know-how (even with religious restrictions); and after the Reconquista, Christian Spain pushed Jerez wines into the broader European market. England became a crucial customer: Shakespeare name-checked “sherris sack,” and from the Age of Sail onward, casks leaving Cádiz were as common as spices.

Fortification emerged as a practical solution for seaborne trade – raising alcohol stabilized wine that had to survive heat and long voyages. By the 19th century, Jerez was exporting at scale; phylloxera later forced replanting and consolidation. The 20th century brought regulation (Spain’s first wine Consejo), industrial peaks, then the 1970s sugar-tilted craze and an inevitable correction. Today’s story is smaller but smarter: single-vineyard (pago) cues, minimally filtered en rama bottlings, old-and-rare age indications (VOS/VORS), and a quality-first ethos aimed at curious drinkers who value origin and craft.

The Sherry Triangle – Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa María – sits near the Atlantic at roughly 36°N. Summers are hot and dry; winters bring Atlantic rain. The defining feature is albariza, a pale, chalk-rich soil that acts like a sponge: it soaks up winter water and rationreleases it throughout summer, while its white surface bounces sunlight back into the vine canopy. Cool, damp Poniente breezes temper heat, while the dry Levante wind can desiccate fruit and speed ripening. Site matters: inland vineyards are warmer; coastal zones, especially around Sanlúcar, are cooler and more humid – conditions that favor flor development.

Grapes:

• Palomino is the canvas for all dry styles – a relatively neutral, low-acid variety, with mild aromatics, generous yields, and a graceful ability to translate aging and place.

• Pedro Ximénez (PX) and Moscatel are sun-dried for naturally sweet wines; PX is also a common sweetening component for blends.

Picking & pressing

Timing aims for ripe but not blowsy fruit – enough sugar for a stable base wine while keeping acids present. Grapes are pressed gently and quickly; skins and seeds are not the goal here (phenolics can fight flor later). Juice cuts matter: the lightest fractions are typically reserved for finer, biologically aged styles; firmer pressings often head toward oxidative paths.

Fermentation (mostly dry)

Base wines ferment to dryness, typically in stainless steel at moderate temperatures to keep fermentations clean and reliable. Some houses still ferment portions in old, neutral butts to add texture. You’ll sometimes hear of blocks from different vineyard zones kept separate, which later helps blending and supports today’s terroir-forward movement.

First classification – choosing the path

Winemakers taste and analyze the young wines. Lighter, finer lots are earmarked for biological aging (life under a protective yeast veil). Fuller, more structured lots are directed to oxidative aging (life with oxygen). This decision shapes everything that follows.

Fortification – what, when, and why

Sherry uses a neutral grape spirit (very high proof, neutral aroma).

• Biological path: wines are set around 15.0–15.5% ABV – the Goldilocks zone for flor to thrive while the wine remains stable.

• Oxidative path: wines are fortified higher, typically ~17% ABV or above, a level at which flor cannot survive; the wine will age in contact with oxygen.

Why fortify at all? For three main reasons: stability for long aging, stylistic direction (flor vs. oxygen), and a consistent house style year after year, which is vital in a region defined by blending across many barrels and multiple years.

Sobretabla – settling in

Sobretabla is an interim storage solution used for about 6-12 months. Newly fortified wines rest in tank or old butts and are watched closely. Some lots show a natural aptitude for flor, while others reveal the bones for oxidative development. Sobretabla is the pre-solera seasoning of Sherry.

Aging is the heartbeat of Sherry. Unlike most wines, where terroir or grape variety dominates, Sherry’s soul comes from time in cask and the way that time is managed. The choice between letting wine evolve under a living veil of yeast (flor) or exposing it to the slow influence of oxygen sets the style. The solera system then stitches these moments together, layering freshness with maturity in a way that no vintage-stamped wine can replicate.

Biological aging (life under flor)

Flor is a living film of yeast strains that naturally forms on wine at around 15–15.5% abv in well-aired, humid bodegas. It thrives when casks are filled shy of the bung (leaving headspace for oxygen), temperatures stay moderate, and humidity runs high. Flor does three essential things:

• Shields the wine from oxidation, keeping it pale and delicate.

• Transforms aroma, creating saline, chamomile, green-apple-skin, and almond notes – the classic signature of Fino and Manzanilla.

• Lightens body by consuming glycerol, leaving these wines bone-dry and laser-like on the palate.

In Sanlúcar, flor is thicker and more consistent thanks to the maritime climate, yielding Manzanilla with a vibrant, sea-spray freshness. In Jerez, Fino often shows a touch more body and savory depth.

Oxidative aging (life with oxygen)

When flor is absent, oxygen becomes the sculptor. Slowly, year after year, evaporation concentrates flavors while deepening color from gold to amber to mahogany. Aromas shift toward walnut, toffee, dried fig, and caramelized citrus, while rising glycerol lends roundness and plushness. This is the world of Oloroso, and, depending on how a wine’s journey begins, also Amontillado and Palo Cortado.

The solera connection

Neither path exists in isolation. Through the solera system – barrels of varying ages fractionally blended – youthful energy is continuously woven into mature depth. Picture tiers of old barrels grouped by average age (criaderas), with the oldest tier called the solera.

When a winery bottles, it draws a portion from the solera; the resulting void is topped with wine from the next-youngest tier; and so on, with the most youthful wine refreshing the youngest criadera. The result is consistency and complexity – every bottle is part fresh, part deeply seasoned. The number of tiers, the frequency of transfers, and the volumes moved are the levers that shape style, intensity, and average age.

See also: The art of blending – Sherry

Fino (Jerez) and Manzanilla (Sanlúcar)

These are the lightest and driest expressions of Sherry, born entirely under the protective veil of flor yeast. At around 15–15.5% ABV, they remain crisp, pale, and bracingly dry. Finos from inland Jerez are sharp and savory, with notes of green apple skin, fresh bread dough, and raw almond. Manzanilla, aged exclusively in Sanlúcar’s humid coastal bodegas, tends to feel more delicate and saline, often likened to a sea breeze in a glass. Both are best served well chilled and consumed young to capture their signature snap of freshness.

Amontillado

Amontillado begins life like a Fino, protected by flor, but eventually transitions into oxidative aging after fortification. This dual journey makes it one of Sherry’s most complex styles. The result is an amber-hued wine that balances two worlds: the lifted almond, chamomile, and apple-skin character from its biological phase, layered with oxidative tones of toast, spice, and tobacco leaf. Dry, savory, and precise, Amontillado is a natural bridge between the brightness of Fino and the depth of Oloroso.

Palo Cortado

Once considered a winemaker’s accident, Palo Cortado starts life destined for Fino or Amontillado but never develops a sustained layer of flor. Instead, it is steered into oxidative aging, giving it a style that combines the aromatic elegance of Amontillado with the weight and roundness of Oloroso. Expect silky textures, nutty undertones, citrus peel, and tea-leaf nuances. Palo Cortado is rare, often commanding a premium, and has become a darling among sommeliers for its uncanny balance of finesse and depth.

Oloroso

The fullest-bodied of the dry Sherries, Oloroso is fortified to a higher level from the outset, so flor never develops. It ages entirely in contact with oxygen, gradually darkening to deep mahogany. Concentration builds over time, yielding aromas of walnut, toffee, dried fig, and caramelized citrus. On the palate, it is generous, rounded, and savory, often with a rich texture that makes it one of the most versatile wines for pairing with robust food. Long-aged Olorosos achieve extraordinary depth and complexity, making them highly prized.

Naturally sweet (Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel)

The naturally sweet Sherries are dessert in a bottle. Grapes (typically PX or Moscatel) are harvested and then sun-dried on straw mats, raisining to concentrate sugars before partial fermentation. Once fortified, the wines age oxidatively, developing into some of the richest, sweetest wines in the world. PX is dark, dense, and syrupy, with flavors of raisins, molasses, coffee, and licorice. Moscatel, though less common, is more aromatic, with notes of orange blossom, honey, and caramel. Both can be enjoyed alone, drizzled over desserts, or used in blending to sweeten other Sherries.

Sweetened styles (Pale Cream, Medium, Cream)

Sweetened Sherries are made by blending dry wines with sweetening agents such as PX or concentrated grape must. Styles vary in richness: Pale Cream is light and delicate, retaining a faint flor character with gentle sweetness; Medium tends to balance biological and oxidative notes with moderate sweetness; and Cream Sherry is usually based on Oloroso, resulting in a darker, richer, dessert-leaning blend. While these styles fueled Sherry’s mass-market popularity in the 20th century, today premium examples show just how refined and satisfying sweetened Sherries can be.

Sherry’s range of styles makes it uniquely versatile at the table. Here are some refined but accessible pairings to try:

• Fino/Manzanilla: Oysters on the half shell, sushi, fried chicken, jamón ibérico, or even a bag of potato chips. Think crisp whites, but with extra savoriness.

• Amontillado: Roast turkey, mushroom risotto, ramen with pork, or aged Comté cheese. Perfect for Thanksgiving flavors and earthy, umami-rich dishes. Try N.V. Tradicion, Jerez Amontillado VORS 30YO.

• Palo Cortado: Duck breast, lobster rolls, truffle pasta, or seared tuna. This is the sommelier’s choice for dishes that need both elegance and depth. Try N.V. Tradicion, Palo Cortado 30YO VORS.

• Oloroso: BBQ brisket, short ribs, lamb chops, mole poblano, or blue cheese. Its richness matches bold flavors and hearty textures.

• Pedro Ximénez (PX): Pecan pie, flourless chocolate cake, vanilla ice cream (drizzle PX over the top), or Roquefort cheese. A luxurious, indulgent end to a meal. Try Toro Albala, Don Px Convento Seleccion 1946.

• Moscatel: Lighter desserts with fruit, such as orange-almond cake or poached pears, where its floral lift shines.

• Cream/Medium Sherries: Sticky toffee pudding, panna cotta, or even as a relaxed after-dinner sip with roasted nuts.

Feature image: Jerez-Xeres-Sherry Regulatory Council

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