In this second part of our series on terroir, Westgarth Wines specialist Maurizio Broggi explores the intriguing role human intervention plays in the concept of terroir.

While terroir is often thought of as a purely natural phenomenon, influenced by climate, soil, and geography, human decisions in the vineyard and winery also play an essential role in defining the unique character of a wine. Many argue that terroir should only refer to natural factors, yet some authors and producers emphasize the human element as a key component of terroir that shapes it in meaningful ways.

As discussed in Part I, terroir is traditionally seen as the combination of soil, climate, topography, and microclimate that gives each wine its unique sense of place. However, while these environmental factors are undeniably critical, ignoring the impact of human intervention can paint an incomplete picture of terroir.

Some experts argue that wine’s typicity, or the unique characteristics that distinguish it from others, cannot be fully understood without considering the decisions made in the vineyard and cellar.

The choices a winemaker or vineyard manager makes in viticulture (grape growing) have a significant influence on the quality and style of the wine. For example, in regions with established appellations, such as France, Italy, and Spain, viticultural practices are often highly regulated to preserve the authenticity of the terroir.

Regulations may govern the choice of vine clones and rootstocks, planting density, pruning methods, and even the allowable yields per hectare. These factors influence how the vines interact with their environment, affecting everything from grape ripening to the expression of flavors in the finished wine. By imposing these standards, appellations can ensure a degree of consistency in their wines, contributing to a shared identity or typicity.

In certain French regions, for instance, planting density is strictly regulated to promote optimal vine competition, which can influence how the roots interact with the soil and extract minerals.

In a similar way, some appellations may mandate specific trellising systems that affect sun exposure, air circulation, and disease management. Each of these decisions adds another layer to the expression of terroir, making human influence inseparable from the final result.

Winemaking practices further influence how terroir is expressed in wine. Different regions may have specific guidelines regarding winemaking techniques, such as aging duration, the use of oak barrels, or the permitted additives. For example, in some appellations, it is mandatory to age wine in oak for a certain period, which affects not only the flavor profile but also how the wine expresses its terroir. These aging requirements, often rooted in tradition, influence the style and perception of wines from that area.

The decision to ferment wine in stainless steel versus oak, or to allow malolactic fermentation, can highlight or subdue certain terroir-driven qualities in the wine.

Some argue that human intervention is merely a vehicle for terroir expression, while others believe it fundamentally alters the concept of terroir itself, making it more than just a natural product of the vineyard.

The historical traditions embedded within each region also impact terroir, adding a cultural component to its definition. Appellation laws in France, Italy, and Spain have been developed over centuries and are closely tied to each region’s terroir. These laws and practices often arise from generations of observation and experience with specific grape varieties, viticultural methods, and winemaking techniques. Over time, these traditions have become integral to how each region’s terroir is expressed.

For instance, the distinct differences between a Bordeaux and a Barolo are not solely due to the physical terroir; they are also shaped by the winemaking methods traditional to each area. Thus, tradition and terroir work hand-in-hand to create wines that reflect both the physical environment and the accumulated wisdom of generations of winemakers.

While terroir undoubtedly has a strong natural foundation, human intervention plays a critical role in shaping the final product. The combination of vineyard practices, winemaking techniques, and historical traditions all contribute to creating wines with a unique sense of place. It’s difficult to separate these human choices from the pure expression of terroir, and many would argue that doing so oversimplifies the complexity of what makes each wine unique.

In the end, human intervention doesn’t negate terroir but rather enhances it. Through careful stewardship of the land, winemakers can bring out the best expressions of terroir and a unique sense of place.

Stay tuned for Part III of our series on terroir which discusses terroir, soil and topography.

Want to read more? Take a look at some of our other blogs:

• • An introduction to terroir
  • Biodynamics part I: an introduction to biodynamic viticulture and wine
  • Biodynamics part II: the practical steps